Dwarka = Sri
Krishna
So, two
stories on Sri Krishna as narrated by our Pundit and guide, Shri Bhavesh Bhai.
At the
Dwarkadhish temple, we can see the shrines of all of Krishna’s relatives, his
gurus, his kula mata, Ambika and his son & and grandson.
But no
shrine for his first wife Rukmini. Here is why.
Once Sri
Krishna and Rukmini went to Sage Duruvasa’s ashram some 30 miles from Dwarka
and invited him to their palace to have food and bless them.
By the way
Sage Duruvasa was well known for his intense Krodh (anger). And he also had a
very short fuse!
The Sage
agreed, but on 2 conditions.
One that he
would ride in the same chariot that they came in.
And two that
he did not believe in causing pain to animals. So, Sri Krishna must take off
the two horses and he and Rukmini must pull the chariot themselves.
Sri Krishna
accepted, unhitched the horses and he took up the left harness while Rukmini took up the right harness and they started pulling.
As they were
nearing Dwarka, Rukmini felt exhausted and very thirsty. So, Sri Krishna tapped
his right toe on the ground and a small spring emerged. Rukmini drank the sweet
refreshing water and Sri Krishna also had a few sips.
But Sri
Krishna had made one grave mistake! He did not consult the Sage.
And
Duruvasa’s fuse blew and he got enraged, “How dare both of you refresh
yourselves with water without offering me even a single drop?? “
And he
cursed them, “You both will not live together for long! And Dwarka will not
have sweet ground water anymore!!”
So,
Rukmini’s temple is situated 2 kms away from the main shrine and the ground
water in Dwarka is brackish and not potable!!
Second
story.
Satyabhama was one of Sri Krishna’s
wives.
(Sri Krishna
had 8 principal wives and 16,100 junior wives, those that he had liberated
after killing Demon King Narakasura.)
Satyabhama’s
father was King Satrajit who was very wealthy. So, Satyabhama came with a lot
of Gold, jewellery and precious stones.
And she came
with an attitude (and ahankaar) as well.
And she
proceeded to throw her weight around, and a lot of gold as well.
And she
thought she could become Sri Krishna’s favourite with all her gold and riches.
Sri Krishna
soon came to know about this and wanted to teach her a subtle lesson. One day
he causally asked Satyabhama, “Can you please present me my weight in gold?”.
Satyabhama readily agreed and happily set up a small event and put up a big
weighing scale. And people in the palace all gathered to watch this weighing
ceremony (tulabharam).
Sri Krishna
sat on the left pan. And Satyabhama asked her aides to place bags and bags of
gold coins on the other pan.
And the
needle did not even budge!
She then
collected all her jewellery and all her precious stones and added to the pile.
Still nothing moved. In frustration she removed all the jewellery from her person
and put them too. Still no luck.
And she
became embarrassed and was about to breakdown.
At that
moment Rukmini stepped in. She pulled out a small gold ring from her little
finger and placed it on the pan. And the pan immediately came down lifting Sri
Krishna high up in the air!!
A good
lesson!
But I am not
sure if Satyabhama really changed her behaviour after that.
Because, whenever
a young girl gets difficult and throws a tantrum, my patti would scold in Tamil
“Satyabhama Pannadhey!”, “Don’t act like Satyabhama!!”.
And if two of
my sisters start fighting, my patti would say, ‘Look at them fighting like
Rukmini and Satyabhama!!”
And now our
Gujarat trip, in a chronological order…
On Board
Indigo flight Bangalore – Chennai – Ahmedabad:
The 7-year-old
boy with a fancy mushroom haircut sat 2 rows ahead of us with his mom and dad.
And he had a
loud resounding voice and spoke spasht Tamil in a typical brahmin accent
Our flight
took off and, attained its cruising altitude and a peaceful calm settled inside
the cabin.
And his
voice rang out, ‘Amma, Pashikarudhu. Edhanu kudu”. Feeling hungry Mom. Give
something!
And after a
few minutes his voice rang out once again, in a higher pitch and with
frustration, “thayir sadam vendaam! Verai ehtanu kudu”. No curd rice!! Give me
something else!! Not sure if the mom had a biriyani backup or something
equivalent.
And at
Chennai, when the aircraft smoothly touched down and taxied to its parking
area, we heard his voice again, “Amma, Enakku Kaadu valikkavey ill-laye!” Mom,
my ears did not hurt at all!!
Gujarat =
Rann of Kutch, Indian Wild (& White) ass.
Gypsies in colorful dresses. Gujarat tourism brochure shows sandy desert and ladies in
bright colorful dresses leading a train of camels, sandy beaches in Diu, dry
Gir forest & wild animals on golden brown dry parched grass.
And my other
mental picture of Gujarat was one of huge Reliance petrochemical factory,
Gujarat Alkali plant, Gujarat Ambuja Cement, GFCL and such likes.
Never did I
ever think of the Gujarat country side being covered with acres and acres of lush
green fields, wet black fertile soil, endless rows of cotton fields interspersed
with equally large fields of freshly harvested groundnut , huge mounds of
groundnut bushes waiting to be shredded, millions of shrubs dotted with white fluffy cotton
balls as if tons of white confetti has been sprinkled all over these fields.
And
huge plantations of sugarcane and banana and coconut groves!! And endless rows
of yellow tops of toor and chana daal shrubs. And cauliflower fields and green
spinach to feed cattle.
And mango
orchards. The Kesar Mango grows here and is exported as well.
And we saw
just that all throughout our 6-day road trip.
And we were
also not prepared to see so many cows and bulls everywhere! Goshalas (cow-barns)
everywhere, herds of cows (all A2 brown variety) grazing peacefully. And being
herded by the patient turbaned lean & tall Yadavs.
And bulls.
They were everywhere. Especially on every street corner and street junctions,
around the temple complex, and on the highways and trading centres.
And they
were healthy, majestic with their huge curved horns, symmetric on their heads,
and a prominent hump!!
Sri
Krishna’s place. So, cattle must be found. And no brainer that we have Amul
here as well.
And the chai
tasted consistently great everywhere. Pure fresh milk, strong chai-patti,
grated ginger and local expertise! An unchallenged combination!!
Ahmedabad to
Dwarka- 450 Kms of smooth well tarred 6 lane/4 lane highway. With good watering
holes (restaurants and facilities) every two hours.
We exit
Ahmedabad and for the next 90 min its only factories, big and small on both
sides of the highway. Pharmaceutical Industries and drug manufacturers and
number of small-scale industries.
And trucks
and tempos and tractor trolleys piled high with goods.
And after that it’s just fields and fields all
the way. Cotton & ground nuts occupy most of this landscape. And we see
freshly tilled black soil ready for the next planting cycle.
And we see
trucks and tractor loads of groundnut bags queuing up in front of the
government procurement centre.
WM-101:
Windmill Basics (As taught by our Driver Sokat Ali)
We zip past
a couple of those tall structures on our way from Jamnagar to Dwarka and Sokat
points out to them and exclaims, “Dekho Saab, Pawan Charkha!!”
Very tall,
150 to 180 feet. Each wing (Pankh) is 50 to 60ft long and costly 1 to 1.5
Crores each, he says.
And I ask
him what does it do?
Saab, there
is a generator on top and when the wings rotate it generates electricity and it
charges the transformer down below. When transformer gets filled the DP switch
trips. Automatically the wings will stop rotating – no point in wasting
electricity and heating up the transformer.
Also, the
government will know this DP has tripped it and it will pull all the
electricity and push it on to the Grid.
The wings
will again start rotating!!
And all the
windmills are privately owned but the ground underneath them is leased from the
Farmers.
@ our Hotel restaurant
in Dwarka:
@ breakfast,
a smart 6-year-old girl in a long ponytail and a pink jacket marched in with
her granddad and grand mom. And as soon
as she settled down at her table, she announced she wanted masala dosa only.
And there
was no masala dosa that day.
Granddad
offered puri/upma/paratha/ bread with jam and what not. No way! She stood firm. Masala Dosa or nothing!!
Grand mom
got tough and scolded her in English.
Granddad
again tried to reason it out with her, only to get a curt reply from her,
“Dadaji, hum par jabardasti na karo!!” Do not force me!!
And then the
mom came. Took her plate, filled it up with a bhatura and some chana and
plonked it in front of her. And she ate everything without a sound!
And we were
thoroughly impressed. “Poonai maadri shapadaradu, paar,” my wife commented.
‘Bheegi Billi’, like a wet kitten!!!
Dwarka Temple:
Bhavesh Bhai
takes us around a tour of the Dwarkadhish temple. Very clean and well
maintained. Even the huge 150 ft temple’s gopuram structure appears to be well
cleaned and renovated. Difficult to believe that this structure could be more
than 2000 yrs. old! Some believe the original temple was built 5000yrs back by
Sri Krishna’s Grandson.
The temple
looks majestic on the bank of river Gomti. And just a few hundred feet away
from the temple Gomti flows into the Arabian sea. A wonderful sight especially
during sunset!!
The temple
aarti started at 7 PM and we joined the packed queue of devotees. Even though
the crowd was less than 100, the pushing and jostling was still intense and in
the first round we had to fight our way thru and had a short glimpse of the
main idol.
15 min
later, there was no crowd and we were rewarded with a much better and more
relaxed darshan.
The temple environment
is very calm and peaceful with many shrines of Devaki (Sri Krishna’s mother),
Jambuwati & Satyabhama ( HIS two wives), Sri Krishna’s Kula mata Ambika, Guru
Dattatreya & Rishi Duruvasa.
And of
course, Sri Krishna’s ‘prermika’, Radhika!
The temple
prasad is first offered to Radha and then only offered to Sri Krishna! Power of
love supersedes devotion, Bhavesh Bhai says with deep reverence.
And there is
a shrine of Pradyumna (Rukmini’s son) and Anirudha (HIS Grandson)
Straddling
Gomti river is the Sudama Bridge that connects Dwarka mainland to the small
beach and the small estuary. And that is
the ‘chowpatty’ of Dwarka!
The
colourful ship of the desert being challenged by motorised buggys.
And we
rented an 8-seater for our camel ride.
Powered by a 6-year-old Moti and driven
by his master Heera.
Yes, a true Heera-Moti partnership!!
Dwarka gullis
!! Shopping all along the narrow roads
adjoining the temple is an amazing experience! Everything here has a Radha –
Krishba motif !
A riot of colours
and a fascinating variety of dresses!! And food and milk sweets everywhere.
Bet (Beyt)
Dwarka: this was Sri Krishna’s residence, our guide announces. So main Dwarka
temple is his office and he is the king there. Here in Beyt Dwraka, he is only
a husband! So, the ladies rule this place!!
Scary boat
ride.
Packed full and overflowing, no life jackets, and a choppy sea.
So even if
you are not a true bhakt, by the time you reach the shore safely you will
definitely become a true believer!!
Each way is
a miracle ride.
A miracle
that only Sri Krishna can perform consistently 100s of times each day and for
100s of years.
Some
interesting sights here!!
Gitu the
Chaiwala was born here and he worked in Muscat before returning back to brew
some awesome chai for the pilgrims. We both had refills.
Dwarka to
Somnath: The crop pattern changes
drastically, from low lying cotton and groundnut shrubs, we see huge Banana
plantations & coconut groves. And
cotton and ground nut fields continue to occupy a fair share.
And we drive
thru Jamnagar Relaince Factory, a 4 km stretch on the highway.
And we drive
thru vast stretches of salt flats owned by Tata Salt in Mithapur. (mithu =
salty in Gujarati)
And Sokat
says, they pump all the sea water here.
And once it dries, they collect the salt and send it to the factory
there.
And there
they mix Sodium and other chemicals and then powder & pack it.
And all this
while I thought that Tatas added just iodine to their salt (NaCl, Sodium
Chloride)!
Porbunder:
Mahatma
Gandhi was born in a house adjacent to Kirti Mandir located in a narrow road
here. The ancestral house has 22 rooms! And he was the fourth child. Nice place
well documented!
Surprisingly
all the pictures and posters focus on Gandhi alone. Reflecting back, I do not
remember seeing even one photo or mention of his other siblings. Did I miss a
room??
Somnath:
This
temple of Shiva was reconstructed by Sardar Vallabh Bhai Patel. Very beautiful
and intricate carvings! Good crowd management and a satisfying darshan of the deity
here. The original Jyotirlinga is housed
in a smaller old temple next door. And this is where Abhishek is performed on a
large Shivling. All members of a family sit all around and perform abhishek
here.
The view of
the Arabian sea and the sunset is breathtaking!
And there is
a small shopping complex nearby selling everything from clothes to seashells to
idols and photos of gods and handbags.
And lots of food!!
Jugaad!!
A
unique multipurpose three wheeler that we saw all along our way..
On highways,
on farm tracks and a number of them parked at those small chai shops. And in
Dwarka and Somnatrh too. And they ferry passengers, school children, live
stocks. And they carry heavy loads of grains and every other material that you
can imagine!! Many brightly painted with bells and whistles and some old ones
in battered conditions.
And these
are locally made in Rajkot. Powered by a water pump-set diesel engine, front
wheel taken from a motorcycle and the two back wheel from a regular automobile.
It can lug 2 tons of load (rating is 1 ton only), go @ 50 Kmph and deliver 30
Kms per litre!!
And they
make a huge racket.
Some rich
and brand conscious farmers have retrofitted their Jugaad with Royal Enfield
engines too! Chk it out!!
Diu: There
was nothing worthwhile for me in Diu. We
spent two and a half hours driving thru bad roads from Somnath. And we saw one abandoned fort, one Church, a
small Shiva temple and a bad beach.
Diu is the
watering hole for all of Gujarat. Booze flows freely here ( you need to pay, of
course). Gujarat is a dry (and predominantly vegetarian) state and all those
thirsty Gujjus converge here to slake their thirst and appetite as well.
And the
first building that welcomes you once you cross the check post is Bharat Bar
and Beer Restaurant!!
The big
Portuguese fort is a wonderful place for all those mobile photo clicking
fingers. Every arch, every corner, every pillar/parapet/turret/steps &
staircases, and anything and everything
that looked old, dark and mouldy is a fantastic photo opps!!
Lots and
lots of families, scores of young couples/newlyweds, busloads of school
children, huge packs of teenage boys and coeds.
Romeos in
tight jeans, bright shirts, mushroom tops and fancy reflecting shades. And Juliets
with extra makeup & eyeliners, high heels, designer jeans, smart goggles and
floppy hats.
And each one
of them with a smart phone. And I noticed a few latest iPhone and One Plus
models too. Rich Gujju kids from affluent families having a great time!!!
And as we
move towards the sea front, we notice …
First, the
young hubby takes a pix of his wife perched on a ledge overlooking the sea,
then they interchange places and the wife takes his pix and then the two of them
look around anxiously. And I volunteer to take a pix of both of then perched on
the ledge!
Interestingly
we see a lot of palm trees with branches!
And the
popular Nagoa Beach is black sand and damp and disappointing. Water scooter and
sand buggy rides are the only saving grace.
Diu to
Somnath: We left the highway and drove thru fields and villages and stopped for
Chai frequently. And we saw sugar cane getting
crushed, their juice fed into huge boiling vats. And we saw the thin juice turn
into golden yellow lava bubbling under the heat. And then get poured into large
earthen trays for cooling. And then into big
tins and small 4 kilo tubs priced
at Rs 150/-. And we were invited to wash our hands, dip a finger into the steaming
gur lava and taste it.
Heavenly!!! Better
than any sweet or chocolate that we had tasted anywhere in the world!!!
Gir Safari,
Sasan Gir:
The only
interesting and exciting things we found here were at the souvenir shops and
the T-Shirt shops.
The 30 min
forest safari in a crowded bus yielded 3 cheetals (spotted deer), one Neel Gai
(buck) three lomdis (foxes) and three very bored lion/lioness lazing under a shady
tree. Not enough light to take a good picture, only a dark outline shape at
best.
But the
crowd inside the bus was absolutely thrilled! and they happily clicked away on
their mobiles. And they hotly debated, in Gujarati, guessing the sex of each of
those three canines 40 feet away.
And when I
tried to zoom in my camera on the big one, he just snubbed me by turning his
face the other way and then lay down fully stretched on the ground.
And that was
what our driver Sokat had predicted. “Sir,
you won’t see any real Sher– Ver here
at this time. Only some lomdi and cheetal.”
But Sir the
forest afsers (officials) are very smart. They gather a few old and wounded
Shers that are brought here for treatment and park them under those trees. So, tourists feel happy.
Not me. I
paid Rs. 300/- for the two of us. Very poor
ROI of 100/- per sleepy lion!!
But on the
positive side, it was fun to be packed amidst a group of 30 excited and
animated Gujarati folks, all chattering away all thru the 30 minutes, in their
sing-song Gujju accent!
Sabarmati Ashram:
A wonderful place on the banks of Sabarmati river. Such a beautiful location
and no wonder Gandhi chose this place to set up his ashram.
And I read
his quotes and his letters with interest.
And a few thoughts
struck in my mind.
Gandhiji
must have studied in a good public school (maybe a Christian missionary school?)
He had learnt his cursive writing very
well.
He had a
florid handwriting.
Slant words and bold strokes. And the final stroke of one
word flows smoothly into the next word.
And big legible letters.
And he wrote
his mind in clear precise and unambiguous manner. And I particularly liked these two statements!
Definitely a
great personality! Wish we have many such people in our country today.
And once
again, the ashram covered his political and personal life.
Not a single
mention of his 4 sons nor a picture of any of them.
And did you
know that Mahatma Gandhi’s youngest son Devdas Gandhi was the managing editor
of Hindustan Times? And he fell in love and married Lakshmi, daughter of C Rajagopalachari,
the last Governor General of India??
And now I
must read a few books written by the famous Raj Mohan Gandhi, the grandson of
the Mahatma and Rajaji!!
Krish..