Sunday, October 13, 2024

Golu 2024 @ Sobha Palladian !!

Golu :  ‘ A Thematic display of dolls and festive figurines by South Indian Hindus over Navaratri’ Wiki.

Navratri Golu is also called Bommai Golu in Tamil, Bommala Koluvu in AP & Bambe Hubba in Karnataka.

In Sobha Palladian, a few families regularly put up a grand Golu display each year . They spend a lot of time choosing (creating) the right theme for the year, shopping for additional bommais (dolls), creating the main structure (Golu steps called ‘Padis’) and augmenting the Golu with multiple thematic displays that feature current affairs, stories from purana and sometimes just give in to imagination and artistic expressions!

This year I visited 4 Golus and was mighty impressed by the creativity, the bright colorful display, the vast collection of traditions dolls and new figurines and the story sets and the collection  of souvenirs from various countries.

Check out the  small replica of the pristine white statue of Jesus the Redeemer (Corcovado Mountain, Rio, Brazil)! And  the leaning tower of PISA and the grand Colosseum in Rome !!

And I could spot a few more creative brilliance –




Likethe Chettiar shop selling provisions and prominently displaying his on-line payment QR code!! (Chettiar = Tamil version of a marwadi shopkeeper)



And the Ramayana set carefully arranged and indexed for folks to follow the proper sequence of events !

Check out if you can remember and identify a few of these event s??

Puthra Kameyshtii Yagam, Birth of Rama, Tadaka Vadham, Mareecha & Shubdhu Vadham,  Shabari Vimochanam, Sita Swayamvaeam,  Guhan Vimochanam, Rama Padukai pattabhishekam,  Suparnaka Incident ,  Jatayu, Vali,  Ravana Durbar,  . Sanjeevani Parvath & Kumbbhakarna awakening, Sita Agni Pareeksha and so on…

And the a pair of Kuttuvillakku beautifully decked up to signify  Lord Vishnu and his consort !! (Kuttuvillakku = a tall brass lamp) and the story of Mookambika wonderfully narrated and annotated with signboards.

And the elaborately constructed village scene with fruit vendor, chai/coffee stall,  a park with pink slide and Jhoola, and two ladies making ‘vadaams’ and another woman selling Koozhu Kanji !! (vadaam = a type of rice based pappadam / Koozhu Kanji – a type of thick porridge - very tasty !)

Each Golu was elaborately constructed and decorated. The large mann-bommais (mud figures) of all the various Gods & Goddess looked as good as new.


I know some of these traditional bommais have been handed over thru generations – especially the Marapaachi (Wood carvings of man/woman & child) signifying prosperity and ferrility. Check out if you can identify the Marapachi pair in each glolu !

The golus also had thematic additions which added contextual and modern relevance to the main displays.

Golu @ KK’s is most impressive.  


The display is set off against a lush greenery background of the wallpaper on the left side and a cascading waterfall that gives a feeling of being engulfed in nature. The wide display of souvenirs from various countries reflects their travels all around the globe.  

 Golu @ Sitara’s is a very cute 3 padi display  with bright big bonnais – each of them having a name tag to identify the gods and the scenario



Also, the Ramayana set with an elaborate explanation of each event. A must watch for all young children!

Golu at Dhyuti’s is a grand 7 padi display flanked by Mookambika story on the right  and Ravana Darbar and Navagraha on the left.

Golu at Sukanya is a mammoth 9 padi display highlighted by the bright eye-catching idol Sri Krishna !


This golu reflects the  devotion and commitment to our age old tradition. And the huge investment in bommais and the painstaking effort to put up such a huge and packed golu is strikingly obvious !

 

So, lets go on a visual tour of some displays …

The top  padis are packed with large imposing  traditional mann bommias of Lord Venkateshwara, Lakshmi, Saraswati, Nataraja, Brahma, Ganesha, Krishna, Rama and a host of other gods and goddesses.



And the Dasavatharam set is also a very common display occupying one of the top padis.



The next set consists of sages and saints and themes & sets of Lakshmi, Meenakshi Sundareshwara kalyanam, …………..

 And the familiar Ghatothkachan, Kumbhakarnan, ,  Rama-Sita, Kishna-Radha sets..


And we are bound to find the potbellied Chettiar and his dumpy wife in all golus!

And at Ravana’s darbar Hanuman was made to stand in front of Ravana who sat on a high throne and all his ministers who sat as well. This offended Hanuman and so he grew his long tail and coiled it to  fashion a tall seat for himself and sat,  towering over Ravana and his darbar! !!

Check out this lively song on Youtube : 'Na Raama saami dootan aanada! - hey Ravana" by Sanjay Subramanian,  meaning Hey Ravan, I am the messenger of Lord Ram..

And the village orchestra !


Kollur Mookambika.


Kollam Maharishi comes to Kollur and meditates. The Trimurthis Brahma, Shiva & Vishnu grant him  a boon to protect his village. In the same village there is an asura named   Mookasura who caused trouble to all the three lokas. The Devas pray to the Devi and requests her to kill him. Meanwhile Mookasura also meditates  and gets a boon, but before he could ask, the Devi shuts of f his moutn  and hence he was called Mooasura. The Devi came in the form of Mookambika and killed him. A few years later Adi Shankaracharya came here and meditated and built the statue of Mookambika. He also wrote the Soundarya Lahiri while sitting in front  of the  Saraswati mantapam here.

 

And the best parrt of going to a golu does not limit itself to the visual treat , You get payasam, and sundal  and maybe a sweet as well !!  I received  these at every home plus bananas and oranges and apples !!.   

 ANd I now look forward to next year’s Golu and hope there are a lot more Golus for me to visit !

Krish//

 

Krsih//

Friday, October 4, 2024

Thiruvananthapuram !!


Summary :   4 Days :  550 Kms :  13 places :   Temples of Shiva, Parvati, Ganesha, Sri Krishna, Lord Rama, Varaha - the third avatar of Lord Vishnu, Vishnu in Anantasayanam posture, Lord Parashurama.  Plus a beutifully renotated church (Vatican Style).

We start from Bangalore .

Day – 1:  10.30 AM. Bengaluru Airport . Terminal – 1.

Real swanky. Well-polished floors. Interesting wall painting and sketches,  Glitzy shops with international brands and fancy restaurants. All for the rich folks, business travellers on expense budget, successful IT geeks  and young adults with expensive taste and good money to splurge!

Care for a  Cappuccino @ Rs 283.30 or a  hot chocolate for Rs 309.75 ??

No, not my cup of tea ! 


Day  - 1:  12.20 PM. Thiruvananthapuram Airport.

Warm! Very Warm !!

Anxious folks jostling near the baggage conveyor belt.

Our baggage comes last. Not surprising, as we usually check in very early.  So, I give up navigating through the maze of trolleys and fighting for a space near the baggage carousel. 

A few years back, if you asked anyone whatare  the interesting places to see in Trivandrum, you might just get two responses.

Kovalam Beach

Ananth Padmanabhaswamy Temple

And a few wise ones may hazard a guess   -   Kanya kumari ?? 

Today Trivandrum  is no longer a  two location tourist spot!!

There are a lot of interesting places to see.   Temples.  Monuments, Cultural centres & a lot of scenic spots to keep you busy.

And for people like us who like to go temple hopping, Trivandrum offers a host of holy places to visit – Old and well preserved temples, vast sprawling ‘kshetrams’  built in traditional kerala style architecture and a few Historic monuments as well. Places that can trace their history back to Ramayana period, the Puranas and beyond. 

Day  - 1:  4.20 PM. Neyyitingaran Sri Krishna Temple

Neyyattinkara Sree Krishna Swamy Temple is an ancient temple dedicated to Lord Krishna.  At Neyyattinkara, 20 km south of Thiruvananthapuram city. King Marthanda Varma of Travancore built the temple in 1755. Lord Krishna is worshipped in this temple in the form of Unnikannan (Baby Krishna) also called Navaneetha Krishna .  

If you look intently at the deity you can see the small idol of a chubby standing Krishna with a noticeable belly and carrying a butter ball in one hand and a spoon in the other hand.

The history/legend behind the construction of this temple is, that the King was once surrounded by his enemies. While  searching for  a safe place, a small boy advised the king to hide himself inside the hollow trunk of a huge jack fruit tree nearby. The king heeded to this advice and was thus saved . Later, the king tried to ascertain the identity of the boy but could not. The king then strongly believed that it was in fact Lord Krishna/Unnikrishna himself who saved his life and he decided to build a temple for Lord Krishna, as a gratitude, at the exact place where he hid inside the jack fruit tree. The huge jack fruit tree which helped the king save his life came to be known as "Ammachi Plavu" (Mother/Grandmother jack fruit tree).  At present, the hollow trunk of this tree is in a preserved state (by Archaeological Department) and is visible to all devotees who visit this temple. 

Day  - 1:  5.30 PM. Maheshwaram Shri Shiva Parvati temple at Chenkal - the largest Shivalingam in the wotld.

 This temple is dedicated to the peace of the world and meditation. It is also known as Dakshina Kailasam .

An imposing Shivalingam, 111 ft high is the highest in the world. Interior of this Maha Shivalinga consists of 8 storeys. 50 persons can sit / pray / medidate in each floor at the same time.

The temple complex displays 32 different forms of Ganapathi from Bal Ganapathi to Yoga Ganapathi.

There is another hall with the installation of 12 major Jyothirlingas.  All of them have been installed in exactly the same way as in the original temples and the rituals of worship are conducted in the exact same fashion.

Surprisingly not much is mentioned about the flying Hanuman structure adjacent to the Shivaliingam . It appears to have been build much later.


 

Day  - 2:  4.30 AM & 4.30 PM. Sri Ananthapadmanabha Swamy Temple.

We had to make 2 visits as our morning darshan was so crowded that we could not see the diety at all.

Padmanabhaswamy  a form of Vishnu enshrined in the "Anantasayanam" posture, engaged in eternal yogic sleep on his serpent mount, Sheshanaga.




Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple is one of the 108 Divya Desams (holy abodes of Lord Vishnu) glorified in the famous Tamil literary work Divya Prabandham by the Tamil Alvar Saints between the  6th to the 9th century. In the 8th century Nammalvar sang praises of Sri Padmanabha.The main idol is awe-inspiring and unique.  The idol is said to be made of 12,008 Shaligramam stones (the an-iconic form of Lord Vishnu, taken from the banks of the Gandaki River that flowed through India and Nepal). The Lord reclines on Adi Shesha Naga with his right hand atop the Linga of Lord Shiva. Lord Brahma appears out of the navel of Lord Vishnu on a Lotus.  The idol is visible through three doors, the first one showing Lord Vishnu’s face and with his right hand a Shivalingam.  Goddess Sridevi and Lord Brahma are visible through the second door along with Vishnu’s body and  at HIS feet which is visible through the third door, Goddess Bhudevi and Kaudinya Muni can be seen. Offerings of flower and fruits wrapped in a banana leaf are given at this door.


Best times to visit the temple are between 4 AM to 5 AM in the morning and 4 PM to 5 PM in the evening. You will need to buy a special darshan ticket of Rs 500/- which will lead you closer to the three doors and better view of the diety.

A view of the East Nada Street from Temple steps. The main Temple entrance bears a festive atmosphere with vendors and shop displaying a variety of brightly colored  artifacts.  A good place to buy memorabilia and gifts for friends and family.


Check out the local snacks!!  Hot and spicy !!!

Day  - 2:  10.30 AM. Sri Lakshmi Varaha Temple (Sri Varaham).

The principal deity of the temple is Varaha, the third (wild boar faced) avatar of Vishnu. This is one of the few temples in India where Lakshmi is depicted with Varaha.

Sri Varaha Murthy is depicted as sitting on Bhadra Peeta with four hands. He has Chakra and Shank in His upper hands. His consort Sri Maha Lakshmi is sitting on His left lap and HIS left lower hand is embracing Her. His right lower hand is in Abhaya Mudra. It is believed that this temple is atleast 5000 years old and  that Bhagwan Himself had built this temple.

A walkable distance from Sri Padmanabha Swamy temple you can also take a  a short ride on a car or autoriksha from east fort. 

The temple pond is the largest  in Kerala and has an area of 8 acres. During Onam festival, a boat race is conducted in this pond.

You can buy a packet of puffed rice and offer it to the fishes that swim near the temple steps.

Check out the Koi fish !!

Day  - 2:  12.00 Noon. Varkala

Varkala is a coastal town in the southern part of Kerala known for the unique 15m high 'Northern Cliff' adjacent to the Arabian Sea. Located approximately 50 Kms. north of Trivandrum, It is a popular tourist destination. A lot of budget homestays cater to foreign and Indian hikers. Plenty of shacks on the cliff serve great seafood and the evenings are livery with party atmosphere, great music playing global music and a variety of seafood. Sorry I cannot comment  on the seafood.


The town's iconic cliff, known as the Varkala Cliff, is a geological wonder that attracts visitors from far and wide. Perched atop the cliffs are numerous cafes, shops, and guesthouses offering panoramic view of the sea, making it an ideal spot for leisurely strolls and sunset watching.

Day  - 2:  1.00 PM Vishnu Temple, Varkala.


We went tp an old Vishnu temple ..

Janardhanaswamy Temple :


Also known as the Varkala Temple, it is situated in  Janardhanapuram, Varkala city. The temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu in the form of Janardanaswamy, locally known as Varkaleswara (the lord of Varkala).

 It is a well-known temple renowned, and is thousands of years old.[

Originally built around 2000 years ago, its present structure dates back to the 12th century. Pilgrims religiously make their way here to pray to  Lord Vishnu. A majority come here to perform the final rites for their loved ones.

Due to lack of time we had to skip this temple. Maybe next time ?

Day  - 3:  10.20 AM. Jatayu Adventure Center (Jatayu  Earth's Center), Chadayamangalam, Kollam.


It is the world’s largest bird sculpture and within it a rock theme park for adventure enthusiasts. A tribute to the mythical bird from the Indian epic Ramayana – Jatayu.

Jatayu tried to save Sita when Ravana was abducting her in his Pushpaka Vimana. Jatayu  fought valiantly and fell on these rocks, his wings cut off and grievously injured. He refused to die until he got the darshan of Lard Rama and conveyed news of Sita.

The Jatayu Adventure Center, is 50 km from Thiruvananthapuram.


The centre combines  artistry, mythology, technology, culture, adventure, leisure, and wellness. The12-D virtual reality museum and the theatrical magic that renders the story of Jatayu add to the magic of the destination.


The newly built ropeway offers  a bird’s eye view of God’s Own Country.

The Jatayu Adventure Center offers the largest adventure park within a natural terrain. Paintball, valley crossing, bouldering, zip line, trekking, archery, rappelling, jumaring and wall climbing are among the many activities available here. The climbing activities are designed around the natural rock formations on the hillside.

Unfortunately, due to time constraints we could not do any of these activities.  

However, do not miss the cold lemon juice and paruppa vadai that you can get at a small kiosk near  the Jatayu statue !!

There is a Rama temple next to Jatayu and you can offer donation to feed the monkeys too. 

Day  - 4:  7.00 AM. Thiruvallam Sree Parashurama Temple.


  Thiruvallam Sree Parasurama Swami Temple is one of the most ancient & sacred temples of South India. It is situated on the banks of Karamana River near Thiruvalla. It is the only temple in Kerala that is dedicated to Lord Parasurama and is amongst the 108 Abhimana Kshethrams of Vaishnavate tradition. The temple is 6 km from Kovalam Beach.

As per legend,  Parts of Kerala were recovered back from the sea by the axe-wielding warrior sage Parasurama, the sixth avatar of Vishnu (hence, Kerala is also called Parasurama Kshetram i.e. 'The Land of Parasurama).  Parasurama threw his axe across the sea, and the water receded as far as it reached.

It is believed that the temple was renovated last during the 12th to 13th centuries. The temple is  a protected monument by the Archaeology Department of Kerala. 

It is a famous and a popular destination for for Balitharpanam – performing Shrardham rites for departed souls.

The Balitharpanam ritual here Is conducted in a very efficient ‘Assembly line’ fashion. We saw 3 batches in the morning 6AM to 7 / 7 to 8 and 8 to 9 AM.


I got into the 3rd batch, bought tickets that included guided rituals (Rs 350/-) and all relevant puja samagri (Rs 500/-) – rice/ sesame seed (black til)/rose warer/ ghee/ Chandan/ ++. Lots of brass ‘gindys’ are also provided for taking water.

Batches between 20 to 50 persons are facilitated to do this tharpanam  that probably continues till noon.

We (around 30 participants) got seated in 2 rows with ample space between and a low bench so that we can squat comfortably. The priest conducted the rituals in Malayalam and  I kept following what the person in front of me was doing .   One hour of chanting mantras & rituals is followed by a walk to the river to immerse the remains of the ritual samagri.

You feel blessed ! 

Day  - 4:  11.30 AM. Aazhimala Shiva Temple



The Aazhimala Shiva Temple is located on the coast of the Arabian Sea near Vizhinjam (This is also where the largest port in India is under construction) .


 The  Azhimala Shiva temple datesback to the 16th century.   A massive and magnificent statue of Lord Shiva  stands atop a rock against the backdrop of the cascading waves of the Arabian Sea.


The Azhimala Lord Shiva statue towers to a height of 58 feet . Shiva’s voluminous matted locks seem to flutter in the sea breeze, as he gazes towards the heavens. He is seated on a rock in a classic posture, one hand rests on his right thigh, while another holds aloft a Trishul (Trident). Another of his four hands holds the Damaru, while another hand is lost in his matted hair.


The form of Ganga can be seen trapped in Shiva’s matted hair, as this is a representation of Shiva as Gangadhareshwar. Lord Shiva’s neck is adorned with the snake Vasuki and a necklace of Rudraksha beads. His wrists and arms are also adorned with rudraksha beads, and an anklet can be seen on his left ankle.

 Day  - 4:  1.20 PM. Vellar Art and Craft Village.

This handicraft village, situated within 10km of the city on the NH66 bypass to Kovalam, Vizhinjam and Kanyakumari


The craft village showcases about 50 crafts in 28 studios. Each studio gives the visitor an option to see the making of the handicrafts first hand and buy them. It has paintings, pottery, cane products, jewellery, home decor, home and office equipment, clothing, statuettes, curios, souvenirs, exhibits and tools made of wood, palm and palm fronds, bamboo, reeds, coir and cloth.

A couple of displays caught my fancy.  The terracotta speakers, the sailboat/ships display and the intricate wood carvings!!



Great imagination, superb quality, great craftsmanship and tastefully displayed.

A tad expensive but well worth the money and the buying experience!!

 Day  - 4:  3.30 PM. The Veli Tourist Village.

Veli tourist village is just 12 Kms away from Trivandrum and  lies where the Veli lake meets the Arabian Sea.  A great destination for boating and picnicking opportunities. You can hire pedal boats or paddleboats.  Roam the gardens and have a nice picnic - the view and feel of the place is unique.   

A floating bridge connects the Lagoon to the Veli beach. A walk on the 60 m bridge lets you soak in the tranquil atmosphere. The lake contains many species of fish and tortoises.

Calm place, nice ambience and a great way to chill out over a week end with kids !

 Day  - 4:  4.00 PM. Vettucaud Church.

Absolutely Awe inspiring!!


The Madre de Deus Church, also known as the Mother of God Church ("mother of God" in Portuguese/Latin), Is  commonly called Vettucaud Church. This church holds significant historical and cultural importance for the local Christian community, which has been present in the area since at least the 15th century.
The current structure of Vettucaud Church was constructed between 1934 and 1937.  . The church’s history is intertwined with notable figures such as St. Francis Xavier, who is believed to have visited Vettukad during his missionary work in the mid-16th century.

Vettucaud Church offers multiple masses throughout the week catering to different language speakers including English, Tamil, Hindi, and Latin. Daily services are held at various times to accommodate parishioners’ schedules.

 

And with that we conclude our 4 day memorable visit to Trivandrum.

Thanks to our enthusiastic driver Nithin !!


And our stay at Hotel Vivanta was delightful.  Great hospitality, genuinely pleasant staff, and good ambience.

An ideal location for visiting local sites.

Sumptuous breakfast spread, well prepared and authentic local dishes – Aapam, variety of stew, Avial, steamed nendram, vazhapoo (banana flower)  curry & local payasam ! A gourmet’s delight – lightly spiced with a faint aroma and lingering taste of coconut oil .  

Our last night’s  dinner started with an extremely refreshing lemon coriander soup and ended with one of the best tasting mong-dal halwa –  a  surprise treat from the Chef Shri Amarnath Singh !!

 Krish//