Golu : ‘ A Thematic display of dolls and festive
figurines by South Indian Hindus over Navaratri’ Wiki.
Navratri Golu is also called Bommai Golu
in Tamil, Bommala Koluvu in AP & Bambe Hubba in Karnataka.
In Sobha Palladian, a few families regularly
put up a grand Golu display each year . They spend a lot of time choosing
(creating) the right theme for the year, shopping for additional bommais
(dolls), creating the main structure (Golu steps called ‘Padis’) and augmenting
the Golu with multiple thematic displays that feature current affairs, stories
from purana and sometimes just give in to imagination and artistic expressions!
This year I visited 4 Golus and was mighty
impressed by the creativity, the bright colorful display, the vast collection
of traditions dolls and new figurines and the story sets and the collection of souvenirs from various countries.
Check out the small replica of the pristine white statue of
Jesus the Redeemer (Corcovado Mountain, Rio, Brazil)! And the leaning tower of PISA and the grand Colosseum
in Rome !!
And I could spot a few more creative
brilliance –
Likethe Chettiar shop selling
provisions and prominently displaying his on-line payment QR code!! (Chettiar =
Tamil version of a marwadi shopkeeper)
And the Ramayana set carefully
arranged and indexed for folks to follow the proper sequence of events !
Check out if you can remember and identify
a few of these event s??
Puthra Kameyshtii Yagam, Birth of
Rama, Tadaka Vadham, Mareecha & Shubdhu Vadham, Shabari Vimochanam, Sita Swayamvaeam, Guhan Vimochanam, Rama Padukai pattabhishekam,Suparnaka Incident , Jatayu, Vali, Ravana Durbar, . Sanjeevani Parvath & Kumbbhakarna
awakening, Sita Agni Pareeksha and so on…
And the a pair of Kuttuvillakku
beautifully decked up to signifyLord
Vishnu and his consort !! (Kuttuvillakku = a tall brass lamp) and the story of
Mookambika wonderfully narrated and annotated with signboards.
And the elaborately constructed
village scene with fruit vendor, chai/coffee stall, a park with pink slide and Jhoola, and two
ladies making ‘vadaams’ and another woman selling Koozhu Kanji !! (vadaam = a
type of rice based pappadam / Koozhu Kanji – a type of thick porridge - very
tasty !)
Each Golu was elaborately constructed and
decorated. The large mann-bommais (mud figures) of all the various Gods &
Goddess looked as good as new.
I know some of these traditional bommais have
been handed over thru generations – especially the Marapaachi (Wood carvings of
man/woman & child) signifying prosperity and ferrility. Check out if you
can identify the Marapachi pair in each glolu !
The golus also had thematic additions which
added contextual and modern relevance to the main displays.
Golu @ KK’s is most impressive.
The display is set off against a lush greenery
background of the wallpaper on the left side and a cascading waterfall that
gives a feeling of being engulfed in nature. The wide display of souvenirs from
various countries reflects their travels all around the globe.
Golu @ Sitara’s is a very cute 3 padi
display with bright big bonnais – each
of them having a name tag to identify the gods and the scenario
Also, the
Ramayana set with an elaborate explanation of each event. A must watch for all
young children!
Golu at Dhyuti’s is a grand 7 padi
display flanked by Mookambika story on the right and Ravana Darbar and Navagraha on the left.
Golu at Sukanya is a mammoth 9 padi
display highlighted by the bright eye-catching idol Sri Krishna !
This golu reflects
the devotion and commitment to our age old
tradition. And the huge investment in bommais and the painstaking effort to put
up such a huge and packed golu is strikingly obvious !
So, lets go on a visual tour of some
displays …
The top padis are packed with large imposing traditional mann bommias of Lord Venkateshwara,
Lakshmi, Saraswati, Nataraja, Brahma, Ganesha, Krishna, Rama and a host of
other gods and goddesses.
And the Dasavatharam set is also a
very common display occupying one of the top padis.
The next set consists of sages and
saints and themes & sets of Lakshmi, Meenakshi Sundareshwara kalyanam, …………..
And the familiar Ghatothkachan, Kumbhakarnan,
, Rama-Sita, Kishna-Radha sets..
And we are bound to find the
potbellied Chettiar and his dumpy wife in all golus!
And at Ravana’s darbar Hanuman was made to stand in front of Ravana who sat on a high throne and all his ministers who sat as well. This offended Hanuman and so he grew his long tail and coiled it to fashion
a tall seat for himself and sat, towering over Ravana and his darbar! !!
Check out this lively song on Youtube : 'Na Raama saami dootan aanada! - hey Ravana" by Sanjay Subramanian, meaning Hey Ravan, I am the messenger of Lord Ram..
And the village orchestra !
Kollur Mookambika.
Kollam
Maharishi comes to Kollur and meditates. The Trimurthis Brahma, Shiva &
Vishnu grant him a boon to protect his
village. In the same village there is an asura named Mookasura who caused trouble to all the three
lokas. The Devas pray to the Devi and requests her to kill him. Meanwhile
Mookasura also meditates and gets a
boon, but before he could ask, the Devi shuts of f his moutn and hence he was called Mooasura. The Devi
came in the form of Mookambika and killed him. A few years later Adi
Shankaracharya came here and meditated and built the statue of Mookambika. He also
wrote the Soundarya Lahiri while sitting in front of the Saraswati mantapam here.
And the best parrt of
going to a golu does not limit itself to the visual treat , You get payasam,
and sundal and maybe a sweet as well
!!I received these at every home plus bananas and oranges
and apples !!.
ANd I now look forward to next year’s
Golu and hope there are a lot more Golus for me to visit !
Summary : 4 Days : 550 Kms : 13 places : Temples of Shiva, Parvati, Ganesha, Sri Krishna, Lord Rama, Varaha - the third avatar of Lord Vishnu, Vishnu in Anantasayanam posture, Lord Parashurama. Plus a beutifully renotated church (Vatican Style).
Real swanky. Well-polished floors. Interesting
wall painting and sketches, Glitzy shops
with international brands and fancy restaurants. All for the rich folks, business
travellers on expense budget, successful IT geeks and young adults with expensive taste and good
money to splurge!
Care for a Cappuccino @ Rs 283.30 or a hot chocolate for Rs 309.75 ??
Anxious folks jostling near the
baggage conveyor belt.
Our baggage comes last. Not surprising,
as we usually check in very early. So, I
give up navigating through the maze of trolleys and fighting for a space near
the baggage carousel.
A few years back, if you asked anyone
whatare the interesting places to see in Trivandrum, you might just get two responses.
Kovalam Beach
Ananth Padmanabhaswamy Temple
And a few wise ones may hazard a
guess - Kanya kumari ??
Today Trivandrum is no longer a
two location tourist spot!!
There are a lot of interesting places to
see. Temples. Monuments, Cultural centres & a lot of
scenic spots to keep you busy.
And for people like us who like to go
temple hopping, Trivandrum offers a host of holy places to visit – Old and well
preserved temples, vast sprawling ‘kshetrams’ built in traditional kerala style architecture
and a few Historic monuments as well. Places that can trace their history back
to Ramayana period, the Puranas and beyond.
Day - 1: 4.20
PM. Neyyitingaran Sri Krishna Temple
Neyyattinkara
Sree Krishna Swamy Temple is an ancient temple dedicated to Lord Krishna. At Neyyattinkara, 20 km south of
Thiruvananthapuram city. King Marthanda Varma of Travancore built the temple in
1755. Lord Krishna is worshipped in this temple in the form of Unnikannan (Baby
Krishna) also called Navaneetha Krishna .
If you look intently at the deity you can see the small idol of
a chubby standing Krishna with a noticeable belly and carrying a butter ball in
one hand and a spoon in the other hand.
The history/legend behind the
construction of this temple is, that the King was once surrounded by his
enemies. While searching for a safe place, a small boy advised the king to
hide himself inside the hollow trunk of a huge jack fruit tree nearby. The king
heeded to this advice and was thus saved . Later, the king tried to ascertain
the identity of the boy but could not. The king then strongly believed that it
was in fact Lord Krishna/Unnikrishna himself who saved his life and he decided
to build a temple for Lord Krishna, as a gratitude, at the exact place where he
hid inside the jack fruit tree. The huge jack fruit tree which helped the king
save his life came to be known as "Ammachi
Plavu" (Mother/Grandmother jack fruit tree). At present, the hollow trunk of this tree is
in a preserved state (by Archaeological Department) and is visible to all
devotees who visit this temple.
Day - 1: 5.30
PM. Maheshwaram Shri Shiva Parvati temple at Chenkal - the largest Shivalingam
in the wotld.
This temple is dedicated to
the peace of the world and meditation. It is also known as Dakshina Kailasam .
An imposing Shivalingam, 111
ft high is the highest in the world. Interior of this Maha Shivalinga consists
of 8 storeys. 50 persons can sit / pray / medidate in each floor at the same time.
The temple complex displays 32 different
forms of Ganapathi from Bal Ganapathi to Yoga Ganapathi.
There is another hall with the
installation of 12 major Jyothirlingas.
All of them have been installed in exactly the same way as in the
original temples and the rituals of worship are conducted in the exact same
fashion.
Surprisingly not much is
mentioned about the flying Hanuman structure adjacent to the Shivaliingam . It
appears to have been build much later.
Day - 2: 4.30
AM & 4.30 PM. Sri Ananthapadmanabha Swamy Temple.
We had to make 2 visits as our
morning darshan was so crowded that we could not see the diety at all.
Padmanabhaswamy a form of Vishnu enshrined in the
"Anantasayanam" posture, engaged in eternal yogic sleep on
his serpent mount, Sheshanaga.
Sree
Padmanabhaswamy Temple is one of the 108 Divya Desams (holy abodes of Lord Vishnu)
glorified in the famous Tamil literary work Divya Prabandham by the Tamil Alvar
Saints between the 6th to the 9th
century. In the 8th century Nammalvar sang praises of Sri Padmanabha.The main idol is
awe-inspiring and unique. The idol is said
to be made of 12,008
Shaligramam stones (the an-iconic
form of Lord Vishnu, taken from the banks of the Gandaki River that flowed
through India and Nepal). The Lord reclines on Adi Shesha Naga with his right hand atop the Linga of
Lord Shiva. Lord Brahma appears out of the navel of Lord Vishnu on a Lotus. The idol is visible through three doors, the
first one showing Lord Vishnu’s face and with his right hand a Shivalingam. Goddess Sridevi and Lord Brahma are visible
through the second door along with Vishnu’s body and at HIS feet which is visible through the third
door, Goddess Bhudevi and Kaudinya Muni can be seen. Offerings of flower and
fruits wrapped in a banana leaf are given at this door.
Best times to visit the
temple are between 4 AM to 5 AM in the morning and 4 PM to 5 PM in the evening.
You will need to buy a special darshan ticket of Rs 500/- which will lead you
closer to the three doors and better view of the diety.
A view of the East Nada Street
from Temple steps. The main Temple entrance
bears a festive atmosphere with vendors and shop displaying a variety of
brightly colored artifacts. A good place to buy memorabilia and gifts for
friends and family.
Check out the local snacks!! Hot and spicy !!!
Day - 2: 10.30
AM. Sri Lakshmi Varaha Temple (Sri Varaham).
The
principal deity of the temple is Varaha, the third (wild boar faced) avatar of
Vishnu. This is one of the few temples in India where Lakshmi is depicted with
Varaha.
The town's iconic cliff, known as the Varkala Cliff, is a geological wonder that
attracts visitors from far and wide. Perched atop the cliffs are numerous
cafes, shops, and guesthouses offering panoramic view of the sea, making it an
ideal spot for leisurely strolls and sunset watching.
Day - 2: 1.00
PM Vishnu Temple, Varkala.
We went tp an old Vishnu temple ..
Janardhanaswamy Temple :
Also known as the Varkala Temple, it is situated in Janardhanapuram, Varkala city. The temple is dedicated to Lord
Vishnu in the form of Janardanaswamy, locally known as Varkaleswara (the lord of Varkala).
It is a well-known temple renowned,
and is thousands of years old.[
Originally built around 2000 years ago, its present structure
dates back to the 12th century. Pilgrims religiously make their way here to
pray to Lord Vishnu. A majority come
here to perform the final rites for their loved ones.
Due to lack of time we had to skip this temple. Maybe next
time ?
Day - 3: 10.20
AM. Jatayu Adventure Center (Jatayu Earth's Center), Chadayamangalam, Kollam.
It is the world’s largest bird sculpture and
within it a rock theme park for adventure enthusiasts. A tribute to the
mythical bird from the Indian epic Ramayana – Jatayu.
Jatayu tried to save Sita when Ravana was
abducting her in his Pushpaka Vimana. Jatayu fought valiantly and fell on these rocks, his
wings cut off and grievously injured. He refused to die until he got the
darshan of Lard Rama and conveyed news of Sita.
The Jatayu Adventure Center, is 50 km from
Thiruvananthapuram.
The centre combines artistry, mythology, technology, culture,
adventure, leisure, and wellness. The12-D virtual reality museum and the
theatrical magic that renders the story of Jatayu add to the magic of the
destination.
The newly built ropeway offers a bird’s eye view of God’s Own Country.
The Jatayu Adventure Center offers the largest
adventure park within a natural terrain. Paintball, valley crossing,
bouldering, zip line, trekking, archery, rappelling, jumaring and wall climbing
are among the many activities available here. The climbing activities are
designed around the natural rock formations on the hillside.
Unfortunately, due to time constraints we
could not do any of these activities.
However, do not miss the cold lemon juice and
paruppa vadai that you can get at a small kiosk near the Jatayu statue !!
There is a Rama temple next to Jatayu and you
can offer donation to feed the monkeys too.
Day - 4: 7.00
AM. Thiruvallam Sree Parashurama Temple.
As per legend, Parts of Kerala were recovered back from the sea
by the axe-wielding warrior sage Parasurama,
the sixth avatar of Vishnu (hence,
Kerala is also called Parasurama Kshetram i.e. 'The Land of
Parasurama). Parasurama threw his axe across the sea, and the water
receded as far as it reached.
It is
believed that the temple was renovated last during the 12th to 13th centuries.
The temple is a protected monument by
the Archaeology Department of Kerala.
It is a famous
and a popular destination for for Balitharpanam – performing Shrardham
rites for departed souls.
The Balitharpanam ritual here Is conducted in
a very efficient ‘Assembly line’ fashion. We saw 3 batches in the morning 6AM
to 7 / 7 to 8 and 8 to 9 AM.
I got into the 3rd batch, bought
tickets that included guided rituals (Rs 350/-) and all relevant puja samagri
(Rs 500/-) – rice/ sesame seed (black til)/rose warer/ ghee/ Chandan/ ++. Lots
of brass ‘gindys’ are also provided for taking water.
Batches between 20 to 50 persons are facilitated
to do this tharpanam that probably
continues till noon.
We (around 30 participants) got seated in 2
rows with ample space between and a low bench so that we can squat comfortably.
The priest conducted the rituals in Malayalam and I kept following what the person in front of
me was doing . One hour of chanting mantras & rituals is followed
by a walk to the river to immerse the remains of the ritual samagri.
You feel blessed !
Day - 4: 11.30
AM. Aazhimala Shiva Temple
The Aazhimala Shiva Temple is located on the coast of the
Arabian Sea near Vizhinjam (This is also where the largest port in India is
under construction) .
The Azhimala Shiva temple datesback
to the 16th century. A massive and magnificent statue of Lord
Shiva stands atop a rock against the backdrop of the cascading
waves of the Arabian Sea.
The Azhimala
Lord Shiva statue towers to a height of 58 feet . Shiva’s voluminous matted
locks seem to flutter in the sea breeze, as he gazes towards the heavens. He is
seated on a rock in a classic posture, one hand rests on his right thigh, while
another holds aloft a Trishul (Trident). Another of his four hands holds the
Damaru, while another hand is lost in his matted hair.
The form of
Ganga can be seen trapped in Shiva’s matted hair, as this is a representation
of Shiva as Gangadhareshwar. Lord Shiva’s neck is adorned with
the snake
Vasuki and a necklace of Rudraksha beads.
His wrists and arms are also adorned with rudraksha beads, and an anklet can
be seen on his left ankle.
Day - 4: 1.20
PM. Vellar Art and Craft Village.
This
handicraft village, situated within 10km of the city on the NH66 bypass to
Kovalam, Vizhinjam and Kanyakumari
The craft
village showcases about 50 crafts in 28 studios. Each studio gives the visitor
an option to see the making of the handicrafts first hand and buy them. It has
paintings, pottery, cane products, jewellery, home decor, home and office
equipment, clothing, statuettes, curios, souvenirs, exhibits and tools made of
wood, palm and palm fronds, bamboo, reeds, coir and cloth.
A couple of
displays caught my fancy. The terracotta
speakers, the sailboat/ships display and the intricate wood carvings!!
Great
imagination, superb quality, great craftsmanship and tastefully displayed.
A tad
expensive but well worth the money and the buying experience!!
Day - 4: 3.30
PM. The Veli Tourist Village.
Veli tourist
village is just 12 Kms away from Trivandrum and lies where the Veli lake meets the
Arabian Sea. A great destination for boating
and picnicking opportunities. You can hire pedal boats or paddleboats. Roam the gardens and have a nice picnic - the
view and feel of the place is unique.
A floating
bridge connects the Lagoon to the Veli beach. A walk on the 60 m bridge lets
you soak in the tranquil atmosphere. The lake contains many species of fish and
tortoises.
Calm place,
nice ambience and a great way to chill out over a week end with kids !
Day - 4: 4.00
PM. Vettucaud Church.
Absolutely
Awe inspiring!!
The Madre
de Deus Church, also known as the Mother of God Church ("mother
of God" in Portuguese/Latin), Is commonly called Vettucaud
Church. This church holds significant historical and
cultural importance for the local Christian community, which has been present
in the area since at least the 15th century.
The current structure of Vettucaud Church was constructed between 1934 and 1937.
. The church’s history is intertwined
with notable figures such as St. Francis Xavier, who is believed to have
visited Vettukad during his missionary work in the mid-16th century.
Vettucaud Church offers multiple masses throughout the week
catering to different language speakers including English, Tamil, Hindi, and
Latin. Daily services are held at various times to accommodate parishioners’
schedules.
And with
that we conclude our 4 day memorable visit to Trivandrum.
Thanks to
our enthusiastic driver Nithin !!
And our stay
at Hotel Vivanta was delightful. Great
hospitality, genuinely pleasant staff, and good ambience.
An ideal location
for visiting local sites.
Sumptuous
breakfast spread, well prepared and authentic local dishes – Aapam, variety of
stew, Avial, steamed nendram, vazhapoo (banana flower) curry & local payasam ! A gourmet’s
delight – lightly spiced with a faint aroma and lingering taste of coconut oil .
Our last night’s
dinner started with an extremely refreshing
lemon coriander soup and ended with one of the best tasting mong-dal halwa – a surprise
treat from the Chef Shri Amarnath Singh !!