Yesterday Jayanthi
made dry black gram choley for our evening snacks.
Black Chana presoaked
and pressure cooked and mixed with her patented masala powder, finely diced
green chilies and spices and grated ginger and lemon juice and the works!!
And she served it,
steaming hot!
First spoonful and
my throat started glowing.
A few spoonful’s later,
my nose opened up and started dripping,
Then my ears got
hot and eyes started watering, and my face and then my whole body started
sweating.
You get the
feeling?
And when I
finished my bowl, I felt like coming out of a 5-star Sauna!
And I was troubled
for a moment.
What would happen
when I sit on the throne the next morning??
Fortunately, and thankfully,
the morning passed off peacefully, much to my mental (and physical) relief and here
I am - alive and writing this post!!
Black gram choley brought
back fond memories of Central market and Sarojini Nagar market in Delhi. Where in
winters you would find a row of chat wallahs with steaming pots on smoking
coal stoves.
And you could
choose your pick.
Hot spicy choley
served with grated mooli (radish) & thin onions rings and a big green chili
on top.
Or boiled and
steaming shakkargandi (sweet potato). Freshly peeled and diced in front of you
and sprinkled with chat masala & aamchur and a generous squeeze of fresh
cut lemon.
And 2 toothpicks
stuck on top and served with a flourish and a warm smile – aka. ‘enjoy your
meal, Sir’.
And of course, my
favorite - ‘bhutta’ !!
Black choley also
reminded me of all the UP and MP railway stations where for 10 rupees you would
get a leafy tray with 4 thick pooris and
topped with a generous portion of hot and spicy black choley with the mandatory
sprinkling of chopped onions and the green chill on top!!
And with that, let
me take you some 53 years back in time.
I was 12 years
then, and was already a veteran of 4 train sorties between
Dehra Dun to Vellore and back. (Not
Vellore exactly, but Katpadi Junction).
A 3 nights 4 days
expedition at that time.
Overnight train
Dehra Dun to Delhi.
Then change over
from Ajmeri Gate to Kashmiri gate (and later to Nizamuddin Jn) to catch the GT Express/Dakshin
Express to Chennai.
A two nights train
ride before alighting at Chennai (or Katpadi Junction) and then a bus ride to Vellore.
And I am sure many
folks from my generation would have endured such 2 nights 3 day train rides to
their hometowns, grandparents’ house, or on summer vacations.
And many of you
might recollect these wonderful scenes from the past.
Steam Engines:
No electric
locomotives then. A few diesel engines and a lot of big black smoking &
steaming steam engines!!
The cone nose
shaped ones ran express & mail trains.
The flat faced
ones were for passengers and good trains.
And with absolute
fascination we would watch the steam escaping from the numerous valves, hot
water dripping from various spouts, the gushing hiss of compressed steam as the
piston linked to the wheels plunged into the cylinder, a series of deep throated ‘chugh - chughs’ followed by a
huge mushroom of black smoke pushed thru the overhead chimney as the big black mammoth
started rolling.
And the engine
drivers mostly wore black clothes, his hands and face black with soot, the
black hanky tied over his head. And his pearly white teeth would shine every
time he spoke up or smiled.
And to humor us
kids as we watched him shovel coal into the burning engine furnace and tweak
the dials, he would reach out to the overhead wire and tug it hard – and with
delight we would hear the loud ear piercing shrill whistle and see a gush of
milky white steam escaping from the engine body.
The Railway Station:
Remember AH Wheeler
and Higgin Bothams??
Overflowing with
newspapers in different languages, and magazines. Sports weeklies and comics
and fiction novels.
And they had English
to Hindi translation dictionary.
And Competition Success
Review and GK digest for folks who are traveling to attend an entrance exam or
an interview.
And they sold playing
cards too !!
Before boarding
the train, it was mandatory for us to stock up our reading material. To keep us
occupied for 2 full days.
A few Indrajal
comics, Mandrakes and Phantoms and Amar
Chitra Kathas.
Champaks and
Tinkle Digest
Illustrated Weekly
of India and Star & Style and Femina.
Sometimes dad also
bought the film world weekly paper called The Screen – the first Indian newspaper
to have color photographs!
With snaps of famous
stars & actress in wet white sarees
!!!
We bought our own
books – Enid Blytons, James Hadley Chase & Alistair McLeans. And Reader Digests too.
Remember the
drinking water taps set in a cement island so that the water spills are drained
out and do not spread all over the platform??
And you needed to
stand on your toes , lean over the small ledge, bend over the marble basin and push
hard with all your strength on the push knob
tap before the water would gush out.
Remember the earthen
matka pot vendor slowly rolling his cart??
A variety of earthen pots, some with narrow
necks, and some with a spout at the top. And the spout shaped like a lion’s
head with a hole in the mouth to let out the water.
Remember the toy
cart??
Bright colored
plastic toys – rattles and rubber squeezies and animals and board games and flutes
and - drums and dumroos.
Dad never bought me any of those.
Remember the ever-present
group of military jawans in their olive fatigues and heavy boots.
Every station you
could find a bunch of them on their way to join a new platoon. And they carried
their regular khakhi holdalls and freshly painted army issued steel trunks. And they had their names and battalion numbers
stenciled on the side.
And the fruit
carts and the food carts and the trinket carts loaded with fake pearl strings and
mirrors, rows of plastic bangles and vanity items including soap, toothpaste,
brush & comb sets.
And the chains and locks to secure your baggage.
And the chains and locks to secure your baggage.
And as the train started
on its journey and chugged thru the various city stations, it took you thru a variety
of experiences that you can never get anywhere.
First the traveling
bards (singers)
Young children
with shrill voices, old weather-beaten men with grating /booming voices,
couples and blind folks and any number of combination of these.
And they carried their
ganjira / ek-tara / castanets and harmoniums!
And some had just
two flat tile pieces wedged between their fingers and they created some wonderful
beats!
And they would get
on from one station and get off at the next, closely chased out by the TTE.
And I am sure they
would board the next bogie when the TTE is not watching!
And they sang a
medley of songs – from devotional to folk songs to filmy songs.
One time a bunch
of bachelors in the next booth got a blind couple to sit down and made them sing
all their favorite songs until the next station.
It was wonderful!!
And we shared our
food with them and gave them a generous bakshish.
Next the
auctioneer.
A big bundle of
towels, bedsheets, drapes, embroidered sofa covers and steel utensils. And he would
run a brisk auction encouraging and goading the elders to bid higher!!
Next the hawkers!
The shikanji
makers, the bhel puri makers, the peanut and chana masala vendor, the fruit salad
makers, the cucumber walla, and the soft
drinks and ice cream vendors and the biscuit vendors. And the bread maska sandwich
makers too.
And as we pass
thru MP and AP, you get a steady stream of oranges and cheekoos and mangoes and
guavas and jamuns and sitafal (custard apples). And small tubloads of ber (wild
berries) the big fleshy oval shaped brownish green ones and the sweet and sour,
deep red small round ones!!
And in between
these offerings the in-train catering services would come up with vadas (batata
vadas / medu vadas/ masala vadas) and samosas& sandwiches and omelets and potato wafer packets
and dosas and coffee and teas !!
And as if these in
train refreshments were not sufficient, each station will come up with if own specialty
offerings.
Agra (& Cantt.
and Raja ki Mandi) station will have carts piled with gift boxes stuffed with
pethas (both standard dry and angoori
variety) and the famous Dal-moth in half kilo and one kilo packets.
And we had to buy
them!!
And this cart is
slowly pushed away by the Taj Mahal cart. A variety of Taj Mahals carved out of white soap
stones. From pure white to sober colored border lined ones. In all sizes with
matching packing boxes. And they also sold picture postcards and picture books
on Agra. Along with them they also sold diamond
shaped mirror studded Air India Maharajas.
And one can never
fail to notice the that young man in skull cap holding a thick stack of peacock
feathers selling them at five rupees for a dozen. And he had peacock feather
fans and tassels as well.
And Mathura station
offered its famous brown Mathura pedas.
(You should go out
into the streets of Mathura and watch those fat ‘halwais’ rolling the brown peda
in their pudgy hands before tossing it on
a bed of fine grained sugar.)
And as the days
pass you cruise thru other stations like Gwalior & Jhansi & Bina & Bhopal
& Nagpur & Warangal & Ongole
and Nellore before hitting Chennai..
And each station
smelt different and has its own unique atmosphere.
Even the water tasted
different at each of these places – sweet to bland to brackish.
And the food
changed too
From stuffed
kulchas in Hazrat Nizamuddin to phulkas with potato ‘gila’ sabji to pooris with
spicy choley. And further south all you got was food packets.
Imli rice / lemon
rice / sambhar rice and curd rice. All wrapped up in a banana (or pumpkin) leaf
and packed in a newspaper and tied with a thin string.
And I can go on and
on and on…
And as I reflect back
on those days, I am motivated to make a trip again.
From Chennai to Delhi
and back.
In a 3 tier non-AC
coach.
Wonder if I will
survive the trip.
But if I do, it
would be an experience that would be worth writing another blogpost!!
Krish..